L'ÉPOQUE USA - On September 8, new fashion star Peter Do takes on the legacy of Helmut Lang and lights up the New York Fashion Week podium with the new Spring-Summer 2024 collection.
09.08.08 © L'ÉPOQUE USA
By Gemma Williams
It is not easy to inherit such an aura, because the Austrian designer has always reformed fashion, from the cuts and the clothes to the system of the industry itself. So it's a vision Peter Do grew up with - he even had a famous “painted jeans” in his closet that appeared in the Spring-Summer 1998 collection.
But for this first Spring-Summer 2024 collection, Do seems unafraid of the historical crowd. Helmut Lang pursued a precise goal between pragmatism and refined fashion, which he abandoned in 2005 to devote himself to his work as a visual artist, and which the designer trained by Phoebe Philo intends to continue with his own eponymous label.
So the opening look, consisting of a suit with a sharp but blurred cut crossed with pink ties, was a nod to the Spring-Summer 1998 and 1999 collections, as were the nine other silhouettes dotted with fuchsia pink on the first table. A few passages later, tailoring looks, this time with yellow ribbons reminiscent of New York cabs, reinforce this urban dimension that Peter Do wants to maintain.